Monday, 15 December 2008

New PM in Thailand. Opposition wins.

Quick update on the fun going on down in Bangkok. A couple of hours ago Thailand elected a new Prime Minister. For the Americans reading this, the process did not involve the whole population voting, the system worked closer to the British way of organising things. I guess they do hold popular elections here, but because this was a special circumstance, that didn't happen.

So since the old political party got kicked out and disbanded last week, members of parliament voted for who they wanted their leader to be - and the opposition party won. That would be the party who made themselves comfortable hanging out in the airports recently. So we'll see what happens now. 

Will the rural population finally get mad enough to have an effect? We'll see..... but this is Thailand's third Prime Minister in a four month period, so they don't have a great track record so far for accepting things the way they are....

This new guy, Abhisit Vejjajiva, is young and attractive and promises change. We'll see.

Thursday, 11 December 2008

PAD...PPP...too many acronyms, not enough information

I have to admit that before coming to Thailand, I knew very little about the country except that I have a lot of friends who have spent many a drunken week here diving, sunbathing, and all in all 'chilling out.' 

I also don't remember the last time I ever saw Thailand in the international news headlines. 

My how things have changed.

I've learned that Thailand isn't just a drunken beach party, and I've managed to arrive in this country just in time for it to splash its name all over the English papers paired with words like 'crisis' and 'attack.' Words I don't like to hear any more than the next guy. 

So for my readers who are just as naive to the situation here as I was just a short time ago, here's the deal:

For a few months there was a large group of anti-government protesters (the PAD, or People's Alliance for Democracy...the most ironic title they could find; will explain later, or read here for more details) on the streets, surrounding government buildings, and for a few days sitting in Bangkok's two major airports, suspending all air traffic in and out of the country's capital. Basically they wanted the Prime Minister to resign because they believe him to be corrupt (which it appears is probably true). 

The airport sit-in caused enormous disruptions to Thailand's economy as you can imagine, so the protesters definitely made their point. Check out the link for more on that, but the short version is that during Thailand's busiest tourist season (now) hotels are at a fraction of their usual capacity. Not to mention all the exports Thailand produces that couldn't fly out last week. One foreigner managed to get inside the airport and camp out with the PAD. He video taped a bunch of what he saw which you can see here.

So last week when the PAD made it clear that they in fact were quite comfortable in the airport, but thanks for asking, the leaders of the ruling party were found guilty of electoral fraud and the Prime Minister plus his executives were banned from government for five years. Ouch. Party in the airport!! 

So now everyone is sitting around and playing the waiting game. They will probably hold elections in the next couple of weeks which could be pretty interesting and could very probably make things worse regardless of the turn out. Here's why. 

The PAD is not a party for the people, nor are they democratic. So great title right? PAD members are royalists, consisting of middle/upper class citizens who believe in an appointment based government led by the royal family. So no popular elections, no democracy, the term fascist-like has been thrown around...

The PAD managed to lead a government coup a couple of years ago throwing out the previous Prime Minister, Thaksin. Only problem is, when a popular election was held after that coup, Thaksin's ally was appointed Prime Minister, because despite their ability to make a whole lot of noise, the PAD do not make up the majority of the population here. 
Do you see the problem yet?

So now here we are again, probably about to have another election. And guess what? The PAD still don't make up most of the population. The PPP (pro-government) members consist mostly of rural farmers which is a huge majority of Thailand's population. So post-election, either the PAD wins (not likely) and the majority finally get pissed off enough to do something about it, or the PPP supporters win and we've all seen what kind of mess the PAD can drum up. 

So there's the deal on Thailand. Don't you feel smarter? Now go impress someone with your knowledge and feel free to correct the mistakes I probably made. 

Play in Vienna gets a messy ending..

This has nothing to do with Thailand or me, but I just wanted to share it with a wider audience.

Moral: Don't mess with a jealous actor...

Kind of reminds me of this musical murder-mystery/comedy I saw in NYC last year called 'Curtains.' So now I only have images of David Hyde Pierce dancing around trying to solve this case sporting a trench and a Boston accent. 

Check out the article here




I just called to say...

It is so nice to be reminded that some people are in fact reading this blog and that they even get worried when I don't post. Last night I received a phone call from my lovely friend Naomi in London, calling to say hi and to make sure everything was okay due to the lack of blog updates. Now that is friendship. To my other readers...I love you all, and I'm sure you love me too...but maybe I would feel more secure about that love if I saw some more comments on my blog posts. That's all it takes people. Oh yea, and a care package. Am I being too needy here?

So to calm Naomi's and any other concerned friend/relative out there's nerves, here is my new blog post to show that I haven't in fact been taken into the jungle to be used in a non-existent cannibalistic ritual. 

There is a lot to catch up on, which means I will probably skip over some of the more insignificant events of the past couple of weeks. Like Sports Day. Was made out to be a huge deal - is more like moderately organised chaos. The students were split into colours and in each colour about 50 students competed in sports like running, high jump and javelin toss. The rest of the student body either skipped school, hung out doing nothing, or were one of the lucky (unlucky?) few to be sat on the bleachers all day waving pom-poms and cheering. The excitement for me was contained to dancing around on the stages in front of the bleachers, and getting to run in the teacher's relay. Remember on sports day at school (if you had a sports day...this may be lost on a lot of my American readers) the teachers had a race, the sole purpose of which was to give the students something to laugh at? Well welcome to the other side of the coin. But since teachers apparently cannot run even half a lap around a track, I barely had time to speed up in my leg before I had to hand my baton over. My team came in second but I still maintain that Kelly's team had an unfair victory because they had one less person. Cheaters. But I'm not bitter. 

The rest of the weekend was relatively calm in Tha Wang Pha. Juliette came to visit from Chang Rai to escape the city and come hang out in the countryside for a day. The two of us ventured out on my bike for an unintentionally romantic sunset before going out to dinner with the group followed by the usual evening ritual of entertaining ourselves outside our apartment building. 

This past weekend was significantly more eventful, but probably deserves it's own post, so sit back, maybe go get some food, or go to work depending on what time you are reading this. Maybe by the time you come back I will have some new posts about my adventures. 

Tuesday, 25 November 2008

I Now Measure 'Fun' By How Much Karaoke Is Involved

Last Tuesday was Kru Noy's birthday. We went out to dinner with her, her husband and another teacher from the school.

We ate in a town 20 minutes down the road called Bua, or Pua depending on who you ask (the Thai sound is actually somewhere in between a 'b' and a 'p'... they have more letters than us). We ate some good Thai food, but I couldn't help but notice that the menu also had 'farang food' i.e. Western food including steak and burgers. My mouth is watering just writing about it. I restrained myself since the 'farang food' was a lot more expensive, but you can trust in the fact that this restaurant will feature again at a time when I am not so poor. Or perhaps when my mum comes to visit since actually if you convert the prices into dollars or pounds it's hilariously cheap. Suddenly the £5.50/hour I was making with AYS in London is looking really good...

After we ate, the karaoke machine was turned on and you all know what happened next. Devon even bravely got up and sang "Have I Told You Lately" by himself, and he even managed to sound great.

Karaoke is one of those things that I have always been scared of. Like most of the population. I don't enjoy making a fool out of myself and I'm aware that my singing abilities are slightly below par. However, I have come to realise that the whole point of karaoke is not to sound good, but to entertain. I suggest that everyone reading this blog, if you haven't already, go to a karaoke bar and sing one song. 

Just one.

Good songs to start off with include (in my opinion) "Kiss Me" "I Will Survive" and "I Want It That Way." The Beatles also have a large list of sing-able melodies. I hope that, like me, after this first song you will realise how addicting and fun the microphone can be. However, be careful not to be a microphone hog, as this makes it less fun for the others involved that want to share in the high you are getting from the spotlight. 

To continue on my mission to karaoke my way through Thailand, Kelly and I met up with Lisa, Kim and Lee (a Chinese teacher at Kim's school) in Sukhothai this past weekend. We arrived at 2am after nine and a half hours of waiting for and/or sitting on buses (again, we live in the middle of nowhere) to find that Lisa and Kim were still up hanging out with Sergeant Smith.

Naturally.

So we grabbed a drink with the Sarge before heading to bed. Sergeant Smith was a middle aged Thai man who decided to assume the identity of Will Smith from the movie 'Bad Boys.' I'm still not sure if he was actually in the Thai army or not, but he did drive a Mercedes...not sure what that means, but it's not often I see a Thai person in anything but a motorbike or a pickup truck.

Sukhothai is the oldest city in Thailand, where the Thai alphabet and language were created. Old Sukhothai is now just a maze of ruins, mostly of old temples that have more or less crumbled to the ground. Still standing are some amazing Buddha images and the remnants of the pillars and walls that once protected them. There is a standing Buddha (something not often seen) that is the height of about ten men. There is another temple ruin and Buddha at the top of a rather steep hill that we climbed in the beating sun to be rewarded by beautiful views over the countryside. My favourite, and probably the most famous Buddha image in Old Sukhothai was of a seated Buddha in a temple called Wat Si Chum. This seated Buddha was bigger than any of the others. The distance between the tips of his fingers to his middle knuckle was as long as I am tall, if not more. It was a humbling sight.

We explored all these ruins and more by renting bicycles. We rented five bikes, for the cost of 30 Baht each (about $1). We rode to one side of the walls of the old city, locked three bikes together with one chain, and the other two bikes with a second chain. We explored for a while and then came out to continue our adventure and found that the two bikes that had been locked together were gone. 

Stolen.

My first experience of crime in Thailand, and if I'm lucky, my last. After awhile we started to realise that there was a good chance that the bike rental place was in fact stealing their own bikes back in the hopes that naive farang would return groveling and willing to pay huge sums of money for the missing bikes. Little did they know that we are now seasoned Thai residents who are not fooled so easily. For that reason, we spent the rest of the day with two of us sitting on the book rest on the back of two bikes, and then at the end of the day, abandoning our three remaining bikes, unlocked near the old walls. In the time it took us to buy an ice cream, the three bikes were gone and our troubles were over. We got a tuk tuk back to the hostel to avoid walking past the bike shop again, and all was fine.

That night, we met up with Mark, a guy from England traveling alone whom we'd met earlier that day. We had a rather disappointing dinner at Poo Restaurant ('poo' means 'crab' so stop laughing). Poo came highly recommended by the Lonely Planet guide, but for perhaps the first time, this recommendation has let me down. After that, we went out to find somewhere else to spend the rest of our night and we happened across a restaurant with a live band. We were one of two tables in the place, and I made sure we sat right up front.

It took less than 10 minutes for the karaoke to begin.

Song after song was performed, ranging from "Like a Virgin" to "A Whole New World" which ended badly because unfortunately the words were in Thai and Kim and I didn't know them quite as well as we thought...

I even got to sing "I Will Survive" with a Thai girl who was in fact a good singer and probably belonged somewhere better than in front of a karaoke machine with us. She also took our request to sing the only Thai song Kelly and I know, called Rak Saam Sow which translates into something about Three Lovers, or Three People In Love, I'm not sure. The gist of the song is that a girl has a great, secure boyfriend whom she loves, but she is also in love with his more dangerous and way cooler best friend. She can't decide between the two of them, who both love her back, but lucky for her she gets hit by a car and dies so never has to make this heartbreaking decision. It is in fact a requirement that all Thai music videos involve someone dying. The more tragic the better.

On Sunday, Kelly and I were able to meet Kru Noy and Kru Daeng (her husband) in Uttaradit, a city a lot closer to Sukhothai than Tha Wang Pha, and ride with them back home. This cut our travel budget in half, and our time by three hours so it was a blessing. 

That's the news!

I have received more notices of soon-to-arrive (hopefully!) care packages from some people, and I would like to remind the rest of you that you can indeed win my heart by sending your own.

Things to consider including: things that will make me smile, things that are delicious, fun letters/notes/cards (this falls under things that make me smile), a book that you're willing to donate to Thailand (as I will read it and then sell it to a shop to avoid the extra luggage) and if you have any photos of me with you/other friends/anything, I would LOVE something to stick up on my walls that are currently bare except for some photos of me and my parents circa 1988 mysteriously sent to me by a Siamese cat residing in Glasgow. 

I'm not even kidding. 

My mum insists that the cat's owner, a good family friend is, in fact, the one who wrote the letter and sent the photos, but I personally think she underestimates the abilities of Siamese cats and should perhaps watch out for our own Siamese, Molly, who allows my parents to live with her. 

Missing you all TONS! For the record, I currently have a second bed in my room which can function as a guest bed should anyone get the notion to buy a ticket half way around the world! Just think about it...

Thai lesson #5:

Juur dan mai pru nee = see you tomorrow.


Monday, 17 November 2008

Loy Kratong photos

Here is the public link to my Loy Kratong festival photo album:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2334948&l=77016&id=910127

Hopefully it works!

Sunday, 16 November 2008

More photo evidence

Yesterday Kelly and I were taken by Kru Rin and Kru Noy to the funeral of the King's sister. It wasn't her ACTUAL funeral, which was happening in Bangkok, but every temple had it's own ceremony. The King's sister actually died a year ago, but for the past year people have been going to pay their respects to her body, and so now she is getting put to rest. It was a pretty interesting ceremony, I was glad I got to see something like that. The monks chanted for the first half hour which was really cool and very calming, I loved it. Followed by a half hour sermon which of course I didn't understand, before we laid our flowers and incense sticks on the memorial created outside. 

Today Kelly and I went on a short road trip to do a little exploring. We drove to the next big town, called Pua, and then up a windy road that has beautiful scenery and eventually leads to the nearest National Park, but we didn't make it quite that far today. 

Here are a few more photos from Chang Mai and this weekend in Tha Wang Pha. I created a Facebook album with photos from Loy Kratong festival which a know a lot of people reading this can access. I will put a link to it on this blog for those without Facebook to connect to as soon as I can access the website again myself! For some reason Facebook does not work for me a lot of the time, so apologies. 

The photos are in chronological order starting from the bottom. 

One of the many huts dotted around all the fields for the farmers to sit in the shade to rest/eat lunch, etc. 

Out on Kelly and I's road trip. I have no idea what this sign said except that it has the number '100' on it. 
The beginning of the windy road we took on our mini road trip that does eventually lead to the nearest National Park, and then Laos.


About to go exploring with Kelly!


After the funeral
















With Kru Rin (far left), Kelly and Kru Noy at the funeral for the King's sister.















Devon's welcome dinner at the restaurant on the hill (I'm sure it has some Thai name, but who knows)
















Our school performing Peter Pan at the school competition. Wendy, in the pink dress, is one of my students! 
















Good times at karaoke at the restaurant on the hill.




























Post fight victory with Julien!













Crazy Mauy Thai boxing




















Before his fight. I knew he would win.











The fantastic ladyboys of Chang Mai
















Inside the temple at Doy Suthep
















Getting the white thread tied around my wrist















Before climbing up to the temple


















The drive up Doy Suthep










Part of the market in Chang Mai