Tuesday 25 November 2008

I Now Measure 'Fun' By How Much Karaoke Is Involved

Last Tuesday was Kru Noy's birthday. We went out to dinner with her, her husband and another teacher from the school.

We ate in a town 20 minutes down the road called Bua, or Pua depending on who you ask (the Thai sound is actually somewhere in between a 'b' and a 'p'... they have more letters than us). We ate some good Thai food, but I couldn't help but notice that the menu also had 'farang food' i.e. Western food including steak and burgers. My mouth is watering just writing about it. I restrained myself since the 'farang food' was a lot more expensive, but you can trust in the fact that this restaurant will feature again at a time when I am not so poor. Or perhaps when my mum comes to visit since actually if you convert the prices into dollars or pounds it's hilariously cheap. Suddenly the £5.50/hour I was making with AYS in London is looking really good...

After we ate, the karaoke machine was turned on and you all know what happened next. Devon even bravely got up and sang "Have I Told You Lately" by himself, and he even managed to sound great.

Karaoke is one of those things that I have always been scared of. Like most of the population. I don't enjoy making a fool out of myself and I'm aware that my singing abilities are slightly below par. However, I have come to realise that the whole point of karaoke is not to sound good, but to entertain. I suggest that everyone reading this blog, if you haven't already, go to a karaoke bar and sing one song. 

Just one.

Good songs to start off with include (in my opinion) "Kiss Me" "I Will Survive" and "I Want It That Way." The Beatles also have a large list of sing-able melodies. I hope that, like me, after this first song you will realise how addicting and fun the microphone can be. However, be careful not to be a microphone hog, as this makes it less fun for the others involved that want to share in the high you are getting from the spotlight. 

To continue on my mission to karaoke my way through Thailand, Kelly and I met up with Lisa, Kim and Lee (a Chinese teacher at Kim's school) in Sukhothai this past weekend. We arrived at 2am after nine and a half hours of waiting for and/or sitting on buses (again, we live in the middle of nowhere) to find that Lisa and Kim were still up hanging out with Sergeant Smith.

Naturally.

So we grabbed a drink with the Sarge before heading to bed. Sergeant Smith was a middle aged Thai man who decided to assume the identity of Will Smith from the movie 'Bad Boys.' I'm still not sure if he was actually in the Thai army or not, but he did drive a Mercedes...not sure what that means, but it's not often I see a Thai person in anything but a motorbike or a pickup truck.

Sukhothai is the oldest city in Thailand, where the Thai alphabet and language were created. Old Sukhothai is now just a maze of ruins, mostly of old temples that have more or less crumbled to the ground. Still standing are some amazing Buddha images and the remnants of the pillars and walls that once protected them. There is a standing Buddha (something not often seen) that is the height of about ten men. There is another temple ruin and Buddha at the top of a rather steep hill that we climbed in the beating sun to be rewarded by beautiful views over the countryside. My favourite, and probably the most famous Buddha image in Old Sukhothai was of a seated Buddha in a temple called Wat Si Chum. This seated Buddha was bigger than any of the others. The distance between the tips of his fingers to his middle knuckle was as long as I am tall, if not more. It was a humbling sight.

We explored all these ruins and more by renting bicycles. We rented five bikes, for the cost of 30 Baht each (about $1). We rode to one side of the walls of the old city, locked three bikes together with one chain, and the other two bikes with a second chain. We explored for a while and then came out to continue our adventure and found that the two bikes that had been locked together were gone. 

Stolen.

My first experience of crime in Thailand, and if I'm lucky, my last. After awhile we started to realise that there was a good chance that the bike rental place was in fact stealing their own bikes back in the hopes that naive farang would return groveling and willing to pay huge sums of money for the missing bikes. Little did they know that we are now seasoned Thai residents who are not fooled so easily. For that reason, we spent the rest of the day with two of us sitting on the book rest on the back of two bikes, and then at the end of the day, abandoning our three remaining bikes, unlocked near the old walls. In the time it took us to buy an ice cream, the three bikes were gone and our troubles were over. We got a tuk tuk back to the hostel to avoid walking past the bike shop again, and all was fine.

That night, we met up with Mark, a guy from England traveling alone whom we'd met earlier that day. We had a rather disappointing dinner at Poo Restaurant ('poo' means 'crab' so stop laughing). Poo came highly recommended by the Lonely Planet guide, but for perhaps the first time, this recommendation has let me down. After that, we went out to find somewhere else to spend the rest of our night and we happened across a restaurant with a live band. We were one of two tables in the place, and I made sure we sat right up front.

It took less than 10 minutes for the karaoke to begin.

Song after song was performed, ranging from "Like a Virgin" to "A Whole New World" which ended badly because unfortunately the words were in Thai and Kim and I didn't know them quite as well as we thought...

I even got to sing "I Will Survive" with a Thai girl who was in fact a good singer and probably belonged somewhere better than in front of a karaoke machine with us. She also took our request to sing the only Thai song Kelly and I know, called Rak Saam Sow which translates into something about Three Lovers, or Three People In Love, I'm not sure. The gist of the song is that a girl has a great, secure boyfriend whom she loves, but she is also in love with his more dangerous and way cooler best friend. She can't decide between the two of them, who both love her back, but lucky for her she gets hit by a car and dies so never has to make this heartbreaking decision. It is in fact a requirement that all Thai music videos involve someone dying. The more tragic the better.

On Sunday, Kelly and I were able to meet Kru Noy and Kru Daeng (her husband) in Uttaradit, a city a lot closer to Sukhothai than Tha Wang Pha, and ride with them back home. This cut our travel budget in half, and our time by three hours so it was a blessing. 

That's the news!

I have received more notices of soon-to-arrive (hopefully!) care packages from some people, and I would like to remind the rest of you that you can indeed win my heart by sending your own.

Things to consider including: things that will make me smile, things that are delicious, fun letters/notes/cards (this falls under things that make me smile), a book that you're willing to donate to Thailand (as I will read it and then sell it to a shop to avoid the extra luggage) and if you have any photos of me with you/other friends/anything, I would LOVE something to stick up on my walls that are currently bare except for some photos of me and my parents circa 1988 mysteriously sent to me by a Siamese cat residing in Glasgow. 

I'm not even kidding. 

My mum insists that the cat's owner, a good family friend is, in fact, the one who wrote the letter and sent the photos, but I personally think she underestimates the abilities of Siamese cats and should perhaps watch out for our own Siamese, Molly, who allows my parents to live with her. 

Missing you all TONS! For the record, I currently have a second bed in my room which can function as a guest bed should anyone get the notion to buy a ticket half way around the world! Just think about it...

Thai lesson #5:

Juur dan mai pru nee = see you tomorrow.


Monday 17 November 2008

Loy Kratong photos

Here is the public link to my Loy Kratong festival photo album:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2334948&l=77016&id=910127

Hopefully it works!

Sunday 16 November 2008

More photo evidence

Yesterday Kelly and I were taken by Kru Rin and Kru Noy to the funeral of the King's sister. It wasn't her ACTUAL funeral, which was happening in Bangkok, but every temple had it's own ceremony. The King's sister actually died a year ago, but for the past year people have been going to pay their respects to her body, and so now she is getting put to rest. It was a pretty interesting ceremony, I was glad I got to see something like that. The monks chanted for the first half hour which was really cool and very calming, I loved it. Followed by a half hour sermon which of course I didn't understand, before we laid our flowers and incense sticks on the memorial created outside. 

Today Kelly and I went on a short road trip to do a little exploring. We drove to the next big town, called Pua, and then up a windy road that has beautiful scenery and eventually leads to the nearest National Park, but we didn't make it quite that far today. 

Here are a few more photos from Chang Mai and this weekend in Tha Wang Pha. I created a Facebook album with photos from Loy Kratong festival which a know a lot of people reading this can access. I will put a link to it on this blog for those without Facebook to connect to as soon as I can access the website again myself! For some reason Facebook does not work for me a lot of the time, so apologies. 

The photos are in chronological order starting from the bottom. 

One of the many huts dotted around all the fields for the farmers to sit in the shade to rest/eat lunch, etc. 

Out on Kelly and I's road trip. I have no idea what this sign said except that it has the number '100' on it. 
The beginning of the windy road we took on our mini road trip that does eventually lead to the nearest National Park, and then Laos.


About to go exploring with Kelly!


After the funeral
















With Kru Rin (far left), Kelly and Kru Noy at the funeral for the King's sister.















Devon's welcome dinner at the restaurant on the hill (I'm sure it has some Thai name, but who knows)
















Our school performing Peter Pan at the school competition. Wendy, in the pink dress, is one of my students! 
















Good times at karaoke at the restaurant on the hill.




























Post fight victory with Julien!













Crazy Mauy Thai boxing




















Before his fight. I knew he would win.











The fantastic ladyboys of Chang Mai
















Inside the temple at Doy Suthep
















Getting the white thread tied around my wrist















Before climbing up to the temple


















The drive up Doy Suthep










Part of the market in Chang Mai

Thursday 13 November 2008

School competitions/ karaoke/ and Loy Kratong Festival

The school competition last weekend was a lot of fun. I yet again went through a little bit of shock when I saw other white people walking around! The other schools that came to compete brought their own foreign English teachers so we made some new contacts which is nice.

The highlight of my day was no doubt the drama section which Shaleas was judging. Three schools including ours competed. We performed Peter Pan (one of my best students was Wendy, I was so proud!) and the other schools performed Beauty and the Beast and Cinderella. It was absolutely rolling-on-the-floor hilarious. The scripts were clearly written by their Thai English teachers, who sometimes get the grammar just a little bit wrong. That along with Thai people's inability to pronounce certain English sounds resulted in the weirdest versions of my favourite childhood stories ever. Including Peter Pan asking Wendy "you come ON me" instead of "come with me (to Neverland)." Oh goodness.

That weekend, Kelly, Shaleas and I also went to one of the two nice restaurants in this village that we have discovered which also happens to be a karaoke place. The great thing about singing karaoke in Thailand is that a) everybody does it, so there's no escaping, b) they are all really bad singers so there's no intimidation, and c) if you're singing English songs, which clearly we were, it doesn't really matter anyway because they have no idea what you're saying. 
So I did what I consider an expert rendition of 'My Heart Will Go On,' Kelly chose 'I Just Called to Say I Love You' and the three of us did a great version of 'Wonderwall' among many other songs. When we got back to the school at about 10pm we discovered a bunch of teachers having their own karaoke party in the gym, so we briefly joined them as well. They really really love karaoke here.

Last night was Loy Kratong festival which was amazing. It's a beautiful festival centred around the river, I recommend you read more about it, but I don't want to bore you all here. There's a short paragraph about it here

During lunch period the students set off huge balloons made out of tissue paper into the air by filling them with hot air. Then we decided to cancel our afternoon classes and our coordinators took us to the salon instead to get our hair and makeup done and get us dressed in traditional Thai costume. They didn't have any makeup pale enough for my British skin, so I looked a little bit like I'd been fake tanning, but other than that it was pretty awesome. 
Then we inadvertently ended up leading the entire parade! Kelly and I were grabbing a quick bite to eat at the market and saw the parade starting, so we went up to take photos. The two women in front were carrying a big photo each, one of the king and one of the queen. They came up to us, took our bags/food and handed us the photos! So I walked the 1.5 - 2 mile stretch from the fresh market to the festival grounds by the river leading a parade holding the queen in my hands! It was great fun, and a huge honour to get to do all of that; I loved it.

At the festival we hung out, watched some ADORABLE Thai children dancing, and watched part of a beauty contest for 'Miss Loy Kratong' before heading home and collapsing into bed.

I sent post cards today! I'm working through my address book alphabetically, so if you're last name starts between A - K and I have your address, you will hopefully get a postcard before I get back to England... I don't have a lot of your addresses yet, so send them along and I'll write to you too!

Finally, the wonderful Nims Laban gets a shout out for being the first person to make use of that mailing address I posted. She sent me THREE wonderful care packages so far including some glossy mags and yummy chocolate! Thanks Nims! You should all follow her example.  

I am TRYING to upload photos but my internet connection can't really handle it, so I'm sorry for the lack of picture evidence, I swear I'm doing my best!


Thursday 6 November 2008

Contact details

Receiving some snail mail would probably make my day. Actually, it definitely would.
Receiving US/UK themed care packages would make my entire week, maybe the month if it's a seriously good care package.
So here's where you should probably start sending stuff. Now.

Marianne McPhee
Thawangphapittayakhom School
Tha Wang Pha District
Nan Province
Thailand 55140

Do it because you know you want to.

I'm working on a Christmas wishlist. For those of you too poor to pay shipping costs - iTunes gift cards always work....sending me an e-mail with a gift card code in it will almost be as good as getting something in the mail. Almost.
Thanksgiving's coming up for the Americans reading this. If you could figure out how to send a turkey and some good stuffing, and maybe a pumpkin pie, I'd really appreciate it.

If you want to call me, from the States it's: 011-66-82-441-3720
From the UK it's: 00 - 66 - 82 - 441 - 3720 I think.

Anxiously expecting some mail-shaped love

"Teacher, you are beautiful!"

Last Thursday involved another day of unsuccessfully trying to get a bike for me and Kelly, but it's not interesting enough to talk about here, so let's skip right on to when Kelly and I finally made it to Chang Mai!
Our short little trip included:
20 minutes riding in the back of a stranger's pickup truck
6 hours on a bus
10 minutes on the back of a motorbike
6 hours on the sloooweeessrr traiinnn evvveerrr

= 12 1/2 hours of traveling

Maybe now you understand exactly how remote Tha Wang Pha actually is. 

We arrived in Chang Mai unharmed but tired and ready to party with Lisa, Nate, Juliet and Jen. 
This was the first time I had seen white people except Kelly and Shaleas since we left Bangkok. I kept pointing out all the 'foreigners' as if I'm not one myself, but it's easy to forget around here. 
It was also the first time I ate something that didn't involve rice OR noodles!! The great thing about Chang Mai being a tourist city is all the international food that's around. Like really really good pizza for instance. 

On Saturday we went up to an amazing temple on a mountain called Doy Suthep. You walk up a huge big set of stairs to get to the top, and it is totally worth the work out. I highly recommend it. We got white threads tied around our wrists by a holy man (not actually a monk because monks aren't allowed to touch women; the monk was tying the men's strings). The string symbolizes good health and long life. 

That night we got to see Muay Thai boxing! It was amazing. There was one European (French) fighting among all the Thai boxers, so I met him before his fight, which he then won in an awesome knockout. We ended up celebrating with him and his friends (who all teach English at the university in Chang Mai) for the rest of the night, first at a pretty cool bar/club frequented by both Thais and farangs (Westerners) called Warm Up, and then the Van Bar, which is literally a van, like an old VW bus, that is a bar in the middle of a car park. At Warm Up I also managed to find a guy from Glasgow (my entire family is from Glasgow for those who don't realise). So Glaswegians are literally everywhere, as usual. 



Monday = the real world, and a reminder of why I'm actually here

So for the last four days I've been teaching at Thawangphapittayakhom school (it's a lot easier to say than it looks at first). 
In Thai culture, children are more or less allowed to do what they want with little to no discipline, which apparently also applies to school. So the first day was really overwhelming because the kids just talk and laugh and mess around in class, but after four days I have adjusted. I have first years (12/13 year olds) and fourth years (15/16 year olds). As long as you have fun with them, and get them to learn while they're messing around, it works. As a result we play a whole lot of games, but hey if they're screaming and laughing in English then I've done something right. 

This is also the first time a lot of them have ever seen a white person, and definitely the first white teacher they've ever had, so we get a lot of attention. I am the whitest out of me, Shaleas and Kelly and I also have the lightest colour hair, so a lot of the students seem to talk about me and whistle at me a lot more. When we walk down the halls, a lot of the students yell "teacher, you are beautiful!' at us. I've even been specifically requested to go visit the sixth years next week (who Kelly teaches) because they've asked to see me by name. At lunch my fan club of first years often come and just stands outside the English department door and stare at me. Yesterday they asked for my autograph. 

The levels of English are totally different. I have first years who can speak better than some of my fourth years, and some fourth years who seem to know more vocabulary than me. One of my best students just came to see me in the office to practice his speech for the school competition on Saturday. It's a 10 minutes speech about the environment, which is one of four he has memorized. It makes lesson planning pretty tough, but it's all a process. 

and finally........<>...

WE HAVE MOTORBIKES! We FINALLY managed to get a hold of a couple of bikes, plus another teacher who lives in our apartment block said we can use his old one when we need it.

And yes - we have also FINALLY MOVED! So we are in our "apartments" which are just one room each with a bathroom but they're pretty nice, it's all brand new furniture, sheets, microwave, electric kettle, plates/bowls/cutlery and everything. They clearly went to a big effort to get us what they could so it's really nice. I think me and the girls are just happy to finally be able to actually unpack our bags!!! 

That's the news from the last week. I'll be sure to let you know how the school competition goes on Saturday (we are judges by the way).

I miss you all terribly! GO OBAMA!!!!

Thai lesson #4:

Motorbike = motorsi

At least some words are easy....